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Matterhorn Mountains

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Matterhorn is one of the most iconic mountain peaks in the world, located on the border between Switzerland and Italy, near the Swiss town of Zermatt. Known for its distinctive pyramid-like shape, it is a symbol of Switzerland and an inspiration for many climbers and nature enthusiasts.

The area surrounding Matterhorn is a true natural paradise. From Gornergrat, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the 4,478-meter high mountain and many other peaks that rise over 4,000 meters. Schwarzsee Lake, located at an altitude of 2,583 meters, is an ideal starting point for various hiking trails. You can reach the charming villages of Täsch and Randa in about 15 minutes from Zermatt. In Randa, you can cross the famous Charles Kuonen suspension bridge.

Matterhorn is unique in many ways. Its pyramid-like shape extends from the Hörnli Ridge to the Léon Ridge, and its position in the Alps makes it almost stand alone, making it a perfect subject for photography. The most photographed mountain in the world overlooks the villages of Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia, and it is an unmistakable and symbolic mountain.

Glacier Paradise on Klein Matterhorn You can take a cable car to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. At an altitude of 3,883 meters, Klein Matterhorn is the highest mountain station in Europe. The viewing platform offers a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of Matterhorn and the surrounding Alps. Alternatively, you can visit the Glacier Palace and enjoy the wonderful ice sculptures and formations that have been created over centuries.

Matterhorn as a backdrop for hiking and winter sports With Matterhorn always in view, you can enjoy fantastic hiking trips of all difficulty levels in the summer, such as the Five Lakes Trail or the Matterhorn Glacier Trail. While hiking around Lake Riffel, you’ll notice the reflection of Matterhorn in the water. In the winter, the slopes of Matterhorn are a true paradise for winter sports enthusiasts. Matterhorn Ski Paradise is one of the largest ski resorts in the Alps.

Crossing Matterhorn Taking a cable car ride around Matterhorn offers breathtaking views of the Zermatt mountains and takes you on a journey through a world of animals, plants, and icy landscapes. Thanks to high safety and comfort standards, you can cross the national borders between Switzerland and Italy at an altitude of 3,500 meters above sea level. During this unique Alpine crossing, several other landmarks await, such as the highest ice palace in the world and a viewing platform that offers views of 38 peaks over 4,000 meters high and 14 glaciers in 3 different countries.

Whether it’s a day trip across the border or part of a fixed route across Europe, the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing offers an exciting experience for both locals and visitors.

Pros of climbing Matterhorn

  • A classic alpine peak and one of the most beautiful in the region.
  • Suitable for beginners and intermediate climbers looking to develop their mountaineering skills.
  • No glaciers or crevasses – just a combination of snow and rock climbing.

Cons of climbing Matterhorn

  • It can get very crowded in the summer.
  • The cost of staying in the Hörnli Hut is expensive.
  • While not technically difficult, it requires significant overall physical strength.

History of Matterhorn climbing: The famous race to the summit The first ascent of Matterhorn occurred later than other classic Alpine peaks due to its notable difficulty. As a result, it was one of the last 4,000-meter peaks to be climbed — on July 14, 1865. In comparison, the first ascent of Mont Blanc was in 1786.

The first ascent of Matterhorn was the result of a historic rivalry between an ambitious British artist and the Italian Alpine Club. While Edward Whymper, a British mountaineer, and six others set off from the Hörnli Ridge (Swiss side), an Italian team from the Léon Ridge (Italian side), led by climber and guide Jean-Antoine Carrel, also attempted the climb.

Whymper had been eyeing the Hörnli Ridge since 1861, and he and Carrel had tried to climb it in 1863. After failures on the Italian side, Whymper decided to attempt the climb from the Swiss side. However, after the Italian club opened in 1865, there were secret plans to beat Whymper.

Eventually, Whymper and his team succeeded in reaching the summit first on their seventh attempt, with the Italian team only 400 meters away. However, more controversy would follow.

What is the best time to climb Matterhorn? The best time to climb Matterhorn is from summer to early fall, from July to September, when there is enough snow to bind the rocks together, but the weather is still warm. After July, the lower sections of the Hörnli route are usually dry and free of snow.

Training for Matterhorn The best way to prepare for such a climb is to practice climbing similar routes. Training days are often conducted in Chamonix, focusing on mountain movement in climbing boots, rock climbing with a backpack, resting in crampons, and building endurance for long days. Since Matterhorn has many fixed ropes, you want to build upper body pulling strength. Regular climbing in the gym, pull-ups, and push-ups will be invaluable.

The basic fitness benchmark is to be able to walk uphill with a 15-pound pack for 1,000 meters (3,300 feet) or run 10 km (6.2 miles) in 60-70 minutes, and be able to climb 5.6+ routes in a gym. Climbing Cotopaxi, Mount Shasta, or any other forgiving technical objective is always a good idea. Although a longer journey, hiking Kilimanjaro is good endurance training.

Packing list and gear

For your personal climbing gear:

  • Mountain climbing boots or mid-height alpine boots (something you can actually climb in, medium stiffness, half-length)
  • Lightweight climbing helmet
  • Headlamp
  • Trekking poles
  • Crampons
  • Hybrid ice axe (50-59 cm)
  • Harness with a locking carabiner, belay device, and chalk bag
  • Personal anchor system
  • Climbing gear (quickdraws, cams, nuts, etc.)

For personal items:

  • Uninsulated, fully waterproof jacket with a hood
  • Uninsulated, fully waterproof pants
  • Softshell jacket, breathable, wind-resistant
  • Softshell pants, uninsulated
  • Lightweight insulated jacket
  • Lightweight hiking pants
  • Light wool layer
  • Long-sleeve base layer shirt
  • Long base layer pants
  • Quick-drying sports shorts
  • Exploration-weight bottoms
  • Travel clothing
  • Padded socks, hiking socks, and warm socks
  • Gaiters
  • Running shoes (for use outside the mountains)
  • Approach shoes
  • Technical mountain boots compatible with crampons
  • Wool or fleece hat
  • Sun hat
  • Balaclava and head covering
  • Neck gaiter
    • Lightweight synthetic gloves
    • Medium-weight insulated gloves
    • Climbing gloves (broken-in)
    • Backpack with internal frame (30-35 liters)
    • Duffel bag (for equipment not needed on the trip)
    • Sleeping bag liner
    • Chemical hand and foot warmers
    • Ice goggles and/or protective sunglasses
    • Water bottle or hydration pack
    • Plastic bowl, spoon, and coffee cup
    • Energy bars, gels, and Shot Bloks for on-the-go consumption
    • Pocket knife
    • Hygiene supplies (hand sanitizer, toiletry kit, toilet paper, pee bottle, etc.)
    • Small personal first aid kit
    • Sunscreen (SPF 30)
    • Lip balm (SPF 30)
    • Camera — optional
  • Power bank

Getting there Zermatt is a car-free area, so the easiest way to get around is by train. If you have a vehicle, you must park it 5 km away in Täsch and take a taxi from there. For the Italian side, you can reach Breuil-Cervinia in just two hours from Turin Airport.

The nearest airports are Zurich and Geneva. You can reach Zermatt by train in 3-4 hours from Zurich-Kloten and Geneva-Cornavin.

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